Singapore reimagined: from rotating rooftop views to vertical gardens, uncover this fascinating city-state
From science-led architecture to sustainable garden projects and dining with a serious view, Singapore makes for a fascinating travel mix. Here Simon Calder picks out his highlights, from must-see sites to where to stay
Singapore is a crossroads of the world, on the way to a vast range of places. Millions of people flow through Changi airport every year, many of them taking a stopover. But Singapore deserves much more attention. You can easily fill a week with adventures in the city-state. The diamond at the tip of the South East Asian peninsula is a dazzling destination in its own right, with a rich ethnic mix, a fascinating history and a warm welcome for visitors. And, as I discovered this winter, with a feast of new experiences for the 21st-century traveller.
Get your bearings
Take the lift 56 floors up to the SkyPark Observation Deck at the top of the Marina Bay Sands. Even better, take a room at this vast and iconic hotel, and enjoy the world’s greatest infinity pool.
Whether you are immersed or simply in awe, the constantly changing skyline is a joy.
At ground level, the Helix Bridge was inspired by that very molecule. The crossing looks impossibly delicate – yet 3-D software was used to create a unique bridge that has immense strength.
On Sentosa Island, Skyhelix offers a very different high-altitude experience. It lifts you 79 metres above sea level and then gently rotates, yielding spectacular visions of the Singapore skyline as well as the offshore islands as far away as Indonesia.
Check in
The range of places to stay has never been wider. You could choose the classic Raffles Singapore, home to the world famous Singapore Sling cocktail, with its rich heritage. Alternatively, many hotels are now demonstrating their sustainability credentials, such as the spectacular PARKROYAL COLLECTION Marina Bay. Or re-energise at the Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa, an island property beautifully located between the rainforest and the beach.
Eating and drinking
Flavours from across Asia and beyond have been imported to the city-state, often with an added Singapore twist. You could dine on a different cuisine every day of the month.
Start your evening 39 floors above the Singapore streets at Mr Stork, the open-air bar at the top of the Andaz Hotel. Order a locally brewed beer to heighten the appreciation and sharpen the appetite.
Back at street level, the “hawker centre” is a great Singapore concoction: all manner of vendors, each with their own culinary specialism, compete for custom. Hawker culture is a pillar of the Singaporean way of life and in 2020, it was inscribed to the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. There are dozens of hawker centres dotted around the city, but my favourite is right in the middle: Lau Pa Sat. The venue is a former Victorian market that was built in Glasgow in 1894 and shipped over in parts to be assembled locally. Ever since, it’s been satisfying appetites – and thirsts. Choose what takes your fancy and then take a seat.
Arts and culture
Peranakan people – descendants of the earliest Chinese settlers in Singapore – comprise one of the many strands of Singapore’s cultural embroidery. Charming and colourful homes created by the community enliven the Katong-Joo Chiat district. Peranakan art and traditions are championed by Alvin Yapp, who has turned his home into an alluring museum, known as The Intan. The collection of Peranakan artefacts is open by appointment to delight and enlighten visitors.
Among Singapore’s mosaic of cultures, I adore Kampong Gelam – especially Haji Lane, home to some intriguing street art.
A walk in the park
There’s increasing harmony between humanity and nature in this great 21st century city. A Singapore vision is to create a City in Nature. One example: Gardens by the Bay, which boasts a 35-metre indoor waterfall, clad with plants from around the world.
Also part of Gardens by the Bay is the Supertree Grove – sustainable vertical gardens housing more than 60,000 plants, linked with a high-altitude walkway.
More traditional gardens abound in Singapore. The most formal manifestation can be found at the Singapore Botanic Gardens – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – on the western fringe of the city centre. While along the coast, a round-island loop for hikers and bikers is taking shape, as part of the Singapore Green Plan 2030 (a whole-of-nation movement focused on advancing Singapore’s sustainable development), designed to make nature even more accessible.
Island hopping
Singapore is much more than a single island – it’s an archipelago, with no fewer than 64 islands waiting to be discovered.
There are regular ferries out to some of the southern islands, such as St John’s and Kusu Island. But of all the fascinating fragments of land decorating offshore Singapore, the most atmospheric is Pulau Ubin in the north east, where you can leave the high-rises behind and enjoy a more rustic experience.
Icing on the cake
To slow down and take stock of all the wonders, step in to Aramsa, a tranquil garden spa in the heart of bustling Singapore, where you can leave the city behind and embrace indulgence. With every moment you feel body and soul feels replenished.
Exciting and relaxing, delicious and dazzling: a city of dreams is open, welcoming and waiting for you. Singapore makes all the miles worthwhile.
From stunning beaches and natural wonders to diverse locales, incredible cuisine, and hi-tech horticulture, Singapore is ever-evolving, and seamlessly blends the old with the ultra-new. Find out more about this fascinating city-state and plan your trip from stays to sightseeing here
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