Tampa: Florida's indulgent shopping and dining hub

Simon Calder indulges himself in the varied delights of the bay city

Tampa is a profoundly indulgent city, which celebrates the many influences that have been brought to the city, as well as some home-grown gems.

An excellent place to start is the Oxford Exchange, the former stables to the fabled Tampa Bay Hotel, now transformed into a characterful dining and shopping venue. You could call it hipster central: there’s a central hub with chequerboard flooring and a tea shop serving dozens of different brews. And the patio dining room boasts a fountain and natural lighting.

The culinary revolution sweeping across the city – epitomised in a new book, Tampa’s Table – involves reaching back into the past.

For lunch, hop aboard the free streetcar (tram) to Ybor City, Tampa’s historic cigar-making district, and track down the Columbia Restaurant. It shouldn’t prove too tricky since it is one of the largest Spanish restaurants in the world.

In 1905, Casimiro Hernandez Sr moved from Cuba to Tampa. He set up a small street-corner cafe and called it the Columbia. But his son, Casimiro Hernandez Jr, had big expansion plans, and gradually took over much of the block.

Guests here include Marilyn Monroe and Joe di Maggio, who reputedly had a tiff on one occasion. Marilyn ended up weeping in the bathroom, where the attendant comforted her, saying, “Honey, there ain’t no man worth your tears.”

Even during the decline of the 1960s, when other enterprises were shutting up shop, the Columbia kept going – surviving the lean years to become more appealing than ever, with a succession of characterful dining rooms.

What to eat? I recommend the classic half-and-half combo, which means half a “1905 Salad” and half a Cuban sandwich: bursting with ham from Spain, salami from Italy, pork from Cuba, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard brought by Jews and Germans. And in the unlikely event you have room for more, the black bean soup is a treat.

If you can still move after your feast, feast your eyes on the decor. Recent visitors here include Bruce Springsteen, Liza Minelli and George Clooney (though not all at the same table).

After dark, Ybor City becomes the hottest place north of Havana, with revellers flooding in for good-value indulgences such as $3 margaritas and their occasional consequence, a tattoo. But you may prefer to head for the Hyde Park Village area of the city.

In 1925, Goody Goody Burgers became the first drive-in east of the Mississippi. It closed early in the 21st century but has been revived as an indoor-outdoor restaurant providing fresh and delicious comfort cuisine. And if you’re keen on second helpings, there’s another branch out at Tampa airport.

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