Bellanger, restaurant review: You don't have to be a star to dine at Corbin & King's 'normal' brasserie

9 Islington Green, London N1, Tel:020 7226 2555. £100 for two, with wine

Bellanger has an entirely egalitarian layout, with no 'best' table (David Loftus)

'Hallmark holidays' are frowned upon in my house. That's what my husband calls occasions aggressively marketed at us by retailers, ones which may once have been personal and charming, but which are now commercial and, well, crap. Valentine's Day falls into that category, but that doesn't mean we're not loved-up – we had a stealth night of fabulous romance at Claridge's hotel with dinner at the Colony Grill Room a couple of weeks before the 14th (after 25 years together, we thought we deserved it and, as it turns out, we won't be splashing out on such treats in the future, but that's another story…)

I mention all this because the Colony Grill Room is owned by Corbyn & King, two of London's most accomplished and best-loved restaurateurs. We return there time after time (and to the Wolseley for breakfast or tea) because we love the food, the service and the atmosphere.

Yes, celebrities abound and sit where the civilians can gaze upon them, but to write the C&K brand off as starf**kers is incorrect – people from Jeremy Irons to Jo Bloggs go to have a good time. For the aforementioned star-effery, there's always what wag/critic Richard Vines calls Essex Fish (Sexy Fish).

The pair's newest venue, Bellanger, turns the accepted wisdom on its head. First off, it's in Islington, not the glitzy West End. Second, it has an entirely egalitarian layout, with no "best" table, from what I could tell anyway. When we visit on a recent Sunday early evening, the double-fronted brasserie is busy and bustling, but feels interestingly "normal".

Yes, the fabled service is in place and the menu made up largely of glamorous dishes (with a punchily priced wine list to match), but it's like being in a reliable, neighbourhood place, not a stellar showstopper. That's not a negative, although the large jolie laide murals nailed to the walls have the very faintest whiff of Café Rouge about them.

From a menu focused on the Alsatian roots of the brasserie, there are tartes flambées and choucroute, schnitzels and Strasbourg saucisses. It's all warming and gorgeous and to be best enjoyed while wearing an elasticated waist (possibly not, then, the place for new romances), apart from a couple of rogue dishes that nod to the eat clean brigade – salad of avocado and superfoods, and grilled chicken with a little gem salad.

We go the full nine yards: an "Alsacienne" tarte flambée (a wafer-thin, crisp pizza) laden with cream and bacon (£4.95) and half a dozen escargots à la persillade (£8.95); then coq au Riesling (£14) and cod à la Grenobloise (£19), with some pommes aligot (cheesy mash to you and me), honeyed carrots and braised lentils. Nothing says "I love you" quite like allowing your partner to consume garlic, carbs, cheese and pulses before bed.

A bottle of La Colliere Rasteau at £39.50 is no bargain, but a mellow accompaniment to our dinner; perhaps I should have had more Riesling to go along with my sublimely silky chicken dish, which comes in a dear little decorated earthenware pot. John's snails are enormous and pong gloriously, although his main-course fish is altogether more polite and with a perfectly judged caper, lemon and parsley sauce.

My husband's made a long-term study of rum babas, and the Bellanger version is judged to be a success, although neither of us has enormous reserves of appetite with which to attack the extensive pudding list (or some marvellous-sounding cheeses).

I return with my daughter another lunchtime and we share a quiche Lorraine (£6.50), which is a trembling delight, packed with traditional flavours; and a light, crisp, generously proportioned chicken schnitzel (£15) with chips and salad. Just the right side of sated, we make short work of a sweet tarte flambée, slathered with caramelised banana and chocolate (£4.75).

There's no shortage of places to eat out in this affluent corner of north London, but the lovely feeling of being "looked after" is what will make Bellanger beloved. And if, of the local celebrities, you're more likely to spot Boris Johnson than Jeremy Corbyn, well, you can't have everything…

8/10

Bellanger, 9 Islington Green, London N1, Tel:020 7226 2555. £100 for two, with wine

Four more foodie notes from the past week

Freekeh

The smoky grain from fair-traders Zaytoun: tastes fab and produced and sold with community spirit. (I stuff poussins with it).

Noble Rot

Twice in a week to this delicious new spot in Central London. Put yourself in the sommelier's hands (and order the slip sole: blissful).

'Pickled'

Had early peek at this book by the talented Freddie Janssen. Out in April and I urge you to order it. So many fun, creative recipes.

Chocolate

After a sugar-free January, eased myself back in with the occasional treat from Hotel Chocolat's "less sweet" collection. Like heaven!