This Michelin-starred mountain retreat in the Dolomites has bundles of character

Among the mountains, Daisy Lester beds down at this chic, family-run hotel offering warm Ladin hospitality

La Perla opened its doors in 1956 (Hotel La Perla )

Duly recognised among The Leading Hotels in the World, this historic ski-in/ski-out stay combines impeccable service with an impressive culinary scene

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Location

Sitting in the resort town of Corvara in the Dolomites, the family-run Hotel La Perla opened its doors in 1956. Located in Alta Badia, a Ladin area of Northern Italy known for its unique cultural and culinary identity, the hotel pays homage to its heritage, with the main restaurant serving Tyrolean-inspired dishes.

The Sassongher mountain – a symbol of Corvara – looms over La Perla, with the ski-in/out hotel benefiting from direct access to the famous Sellaronda circuit. The hotel is reachable by road once you’ve flown into nearby airports, Bolzano, Innsbruck or Venice. The nearest is Bolzano, which is an hour and a half’s drive.

Come summer, the hotel is in a prime location for hiking and cycling trails, while the Michelin-star restaurants and mountain refuges in Alta Badia can be enjoyed year-round.

History buffs can visit First World War trenches in the surrounding areas, or admire the location of Italy's first ski chairlift, right outside the hotel.

Read more: Where to ski in the Dolomites – and the best hotels to stay in

The vibe

Hotel La Perla exudes mid century charm. The flagship restaurant, Les Stües recreates the feel of a “nonna’s” dining room with checkered table cloths and vintage plates hung on the walls.

While most of the hotel leans into Alpine chic, the Bistro lounge is more glamorous. Guests will find mood lighting, a buzzy circular bar and red velvet seating for a nightcap. There’s live music every evening and Italian-style bar snacks to accompany the inventive cocktail list. The “Mezcal Last Word”, and “Lucien Garden” are standouts.

The Les Stües restaurant recreates a ‘nonna’s’ dining room (Hotel La Perla)

Affectionately referred to as a “house”, the property has been passed down through three generations, with the Costa family members still involved in its day-to-day running.

The resident Labrador welcomes guests at reception, while antique furniture, old Tyrolean stoves and even decorative laundry hanging in one of the dining rooms reinforce a lived-in, homely feel.

The crowd is a characterful mix of couples, multi-generational families, parents and grown children, and older groups of friends. Many guests return year after year.

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Service

The service at Hotel La Perla is impeccable. The staff are familiar, but never feel overbearing. Whether following up about your day, creating a bespoke cocktail or serenading you with a rendition of “happy birthday”, they’re warm and attentive.

The daily newsletter at breakfast is a lovely touch, which spotlights various employees, along with providing a weather report, a joke and details of the evening’s live performance.

The sommelier is on hand each evening with wine suggestions, and the turndown service leaves a small treat on your pillow each night, be it a Negroni digestif or a pouch of lavender.

Bed and bath

There are 48 rooms at Hotel La Perla, including four suites with private saunas, Turkish baths and space for up to six guests. For couples, the “Romantik” rooms come complete with balconies and Dolomites views. There are also rooms available for solo travellers with single beds.

Each room is entirely individual, but all feature Swiss pine floorboards, mid century design details and antique furnishings – if you ignore the presence of the TV, it’s as though you’ve stepped back in time. Some of the “Comfort” rooms date back to the 17th century.

Period features such as Art Deco paintings, chandeliers and rocking horses distinguish each room.

There are 48 rooms, each with unique decor (Hotel La Perla)

You’ll find a hair dryer, safe, generously sized walk-in wardrobes, and the hotel’s own sustainably packaged toiletries in the rooms, plus thoughtful details like La Perla branded blankets on the balcony. There are no coffee machines.

The bathrooms are spacious, featuring light-up mirrors, a bidet, and large rainfall showers with seating.

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Food and drink

La Perla excels when it comes to cuisine. The hotel’s Michelin-star restaurant, La Stüa de Michil, offers various tasting menus with wine pairings straight from the vast cellar (the waiters slide down a pole in front of diners to retrieve bottles).

Half-board guests eat dinner at Les Stües each evening, which feels less like a restaurant and more like an intimate Alpine dining room. Drawing on Ladin and Italian inspiration, the a la carte menu includes up to five courses, opening with a fresh salad buffet. The main menu rotates roughly every week, depending on seasonal produce, and a daily chef’s menu is on offer to keep dinnertimes varied.

The hotel’s Michelin-star restaurant, La Stüa de Michil, offers various tasting menus (Hotel La Perla)

Served in its own room overlooking the ski slopes, breakfast is an event. A beautifully presented buffet of pastries, fresh jams, fruits, granola, cheeses, meats and smoked fish is available along with an a la carte menu (think eggs, avocado on toast, eggs Benedict and sweet crepes).

A picnic can be arranged for days out, while the bistro bar serves classic Italian fare for lunch.

La Perla is well located for alternative dining option. Just opposite is Biraria L’ Murin – a buzzy apres ski bar in the winter and a garden bistro in the summer – while the traditional restaurant Ladinia is on the other side of the slope. It’s an inviting refuge for a South Tyrolean-inspired meal.

Facilities

La Perla’s recently renovated spa is sleek with a distinctly Alpine feel. The floor of the heated indoor pool is made from natural Dolomia stone, with two small wooden bridges connecting each end. With built-in jacuzzis, loungers and warm lighting, it’s a serene space to relax after a day on the slopes.

There’s also a Turkish steam room, a cold and hot plunge to rotate between, two saunas, a relaxation room and a refreshment station.

The treatment rooms – dubbed cabins – are wood-panelled and cosy, while the treatment list is extensive, offering everything from body scrubs and facials to aromatic therapies like Ayurveda using local ingredients.

There’s an Alpine feel in La Perla’s spa (Hotel La Perla)

In the summer, the hotel offers complimentary guided hikes for guests, while in the winter, it’s ski-in/out. Nearby ski rentals like Sport Kostner deliver your gear straight to the hotel’s boot room.

Corvara is a dream for all levels of skiers, with those less advanced able to enjoy the blue runs around Corvara and nearby Colfosco. The concierge can organise everything from guided ski tours around Piz Boè to lessons (Maison Sport is excellent at getting you blue or red slope-ready in mere days).

After a day in the mountains, La Perla’s famous cellar beckons. Housing more than 30,000 bottles, the hotel’s nightly tours combine music and tasting in a charming way.

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Accessibility

There currently aren’t any accessible rooms or step-free access at the property, though it is something the hotel is working towards.

Pet policy

Pets are allowed in rooms and communal areas – except the restaurants and bar – with a daily rate of £35.

Check-in/check-out?

Check-in is from 3pm, check-out is 11am.

Family friendly?

Hotel La Perla is very well suited to families and multigenerational groups, with multi-room suites and interconnecting rooms (cots or extra beds can also be requested). Kids’ dining options are available in all the restaurants, and children have access to the pool before 6pm.

At a glance

Best thing: The luxurious but laidback atmosphere and culinary offering.

Perfect for: Couples and families.

Not right for: Skiers on a budget.

Instagram from: The Les Stuges’ dining rooms.

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Address: Strada Col Alt 105, 39033 Corvara in Badia (BZ), Italy

Phone: +39 0471 831000

Website: laperlacorvara.it/en

Read more: Exploring South Tyrol’s indulgent winter food scene

Daisy was a guest of Hotel La Perla.