What it’s like to visit Rome ahead of conclave

This year is already one of the busiest for tourists in Rome, but as the city mourns Pope Francis’ passing and prepares for a historic conclave, Robyn Wilson finds there are sill moments calm at historic sites – and gastronomic delights aplenty

The Roman Forum and Colosseum will remain open during conclave (Getty Images)

The streets of Rome are bustling as mourners wait patiently in line outside the Papal Basilica of Saint Mary Major – the final resting place of Pope Francis, whose death on 21 April prompted an outpouring of global mourning.

Security guards and Polizia strictly control the queue to see his tomb. On the far side of the street, people dodge cars for a better view of the pilgrims and clergy who have come to pay their respects.

Sharp whistles sound out from a police motorcade, halting traffic as it passes through. Three large buses follow, carrying the 135 eligible cardinals who will decide the next pope – their red skullcaps just visible through the tinted windows.

Their visit to the church is part of a nine-day mourning period following Pope Francis’ death, before they commence the conclave to choose the new pontiff. From the more than 400,000 people descending on the capital over the weekend, a huge crowd of 250,000 filled St Peter’s Square for his funeral on Saturday morning. Afterwards, 150,000 lined the streets as his coffin was transported to the Papal Basilica of Saint Mary Major, where he was later buried in a private ceremony.

Cardinals file through the Vatican in Rome (AP)

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For some, the prospect of visiting the city at such a time feels daunting. Ellen, from Kerry in Ireland, and her partner Ryan had come to Rome on holiday for the weekend, having booked tickets before the Pope’s death.

“We decided to stick to our plans. My family are Catholic, so they were saying I was living every Catholic’s dream, but we’re just hoping it wouldn’t be too busy,” she said.

The buzzy Trastevere neighbourhood in Rome is home to some of the city's best local restaurants (Getty Images)

One local, meanwhile, summed up the ongoing whirlwind of events leading up to the funeral weekend with a simple “mamma mia!”, before adding that they expected more crowds over the coming days in the run up to the conclave starting on 7 May. This comes, they said, on top of the swell of visitors due to the year-long Jubilee celebrations that began at the end of December – an event that only happens every 25 years, marking a significant time for spiritual renewal for Catholics.

Also known as the Holy Year, the Jubilee is expected to bring up to 30 million pilgrims to the capital in 2025, according to Italy’s National Tourist Research Institute (INRTI).

Writer Robyn Wilson on a Vespa sidecar tour in Rome (Robyn Wilson)

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Navigating the streets of Rome during this busy time was a challenge, but one I was happy to put to the test on a Vespa sidecar tour (when in Rome and all that), which zipped past major attractions like the Spanish Steps, St Peter’s Square, the Jewish quarter and the Colosseum, which, while crowded, didn’t feel overwhelmed. Though there were some road closures along the route, we were able to nip efficiently enough through the cobbled streets, stopping off for a glass (or two) of prosecco in Piazza Garibaldi on Janiculum Hill, which has magnificent panoramic views of the city.

That evening, I wandered down to the Colosseum on foot, where I was lucky enough to catch an amateur opera singer performing in the open air to a small crowd of onlookers. Sure, he wasn’t Pavarotti, but it was a cinematic moment that I won’t be forgetting in a hurry.

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The historic Roman Forum is one of Rome's top ancient sites (iStock)

For any visitors planning a visit to the Eternal City, it’s worth bearing in mind that with the possibility of the conclave lasting for weeks, the Sistine Chapel within the Vatican will be closed during that time. All tours of the Vatican Gardens and the Necropolis of the Via Triumphalis have also been suspended. I was able to secure tickets for the Colosseum and Roman Forum the day before but it’s advisable to book in advance to avoid disappointment.

Read more: What tourists can expect from visiting Rome and the Vatican after the death of Pope Francis

The same applies to hotels. Since the Jubilee announcement, accommodation has become a hot topic across the city, with landlords reportedly even converting long-term rentals into short-let stays to capitalise on the influx of tourists. The INRTI says Rome’s 400,000 beds would probably fall short of what’s required, which means hotels are highly likely to get booked up.

The grand facade of Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome (Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome)

The Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome Hotel, where I was staying, was full on my arrival due to the funeral delegation. While this eased with check-outs the following morning, one staff member told me they had a steady stream of guests in the coming weeks.

Despite the bustle, with the sun breathing a spring-like warmth to the day, there was plenty of motivation for wandering around Rome’s gorgeous streets to enjoy a little la dolce vita. I strolled along the banks of the Tiber River and visited the breathtaking Santa Maria in Aracoeli Basilica, one of the oldest churches in Rome. To reach it you have to climb a flight of 124 steps, but it’s certainly worth the effort.

The crowds at the Spanish Steps in Rome in April (Robyn Wilson)

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Of course, even at such a frenzied time for the city, in Rome there is always time to eat, and I had no issues grabbing a table as a walk-in for lunch on the Sunday afternoon. Meandering around the backstreets of Trastevere, I stumbled upon Puntarella Ristorante and enjoyed some gastronomic magic, including deep fried artichoke sitting on top of a rich cheese sauce and a fried courgette stuffed with mozzarella and anchovy. Accompanied with a chilled glass of Sicilian chardonnay, it perfectly capped off a busy but enjoyable weekend break in the Eternal City.

Travel essentials

How to get there

Flights from London Gatwick to Rome with Vueling start at £53 return.

Where to stay

The five-star Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome Hotel is a grand hotel housed in a historic building.

Robyn Wilson travelled as a guest of Anantara.

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