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We tested the Skin + Me and Dermatica personalised skincare services to find out which is best

Both of these bespoke beauty brands create routines with your lifestyle and goals in mind

Helen Wilson-Beevers
Wednesday 10 March 2021 15:38 GMT
Lockdown has stopped in-person treatments so these accessible online solutions have grown in popularity
Lockdown has stopped in-person treatments so these accessible online solutions have grown in popularity (The Independent)

Since lockdown first began, it’s safe to say our shopping priorities have shifted. With the majority of us staying at home, make-up sales fell by 14.2 per cent between March and September 2020, while on the flipside, the closure of beauty salons and dermatologists becoming more difficult to access in person, saw UK skincare sales increase by a whopping 54 per cent

In addition to our existing skincare concerns, we’re now facing additional issues such as mask-induced acne (aka maskne) but getting clinical support or treatment remains tricky. As a direct result, there’s been a rise in demand for prescriptive skincare, which are services that enable clients to access dermatological advice via an online consultation.

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Made up of questions closely matching those you would be asked in a face-to-face appointment, a dermatology team examines your answers as well as unfiltered photographs you upload. Covering skincare concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, rosacea, and acne, clients are then prescribed a personalised treatment plan, which involves cutting out toners, exfoliators and acids, to use just one scaled-back nightly cream to be used alongside your own cleanser, moisturiser, and SPF.

Product formulations have treatment strengths dependent on the individual’s personal needs and the monthly subscription charge covers everythting from your initial consultation to monthly products and ongoing advice. 

Just as brands such as Charlotte Tilbury, Maybelline and L’Oreal have launched virtual makeup consultations, remote beauty and skincare is becoming a big industry trend. Meanwhile, the growing focus on simplified science-led products from Cerave, The Ordinary, The Inkey List and Paula’s Choice means customers are looking to results-driven formulas over fancy branding. 

At the forefront of prescriptive skincare services, you’ll find Skin + Me and Dermatica, which both offer daily dose creams that are designed by medical experts and contain active ingredients. The brands help ingredients with mysterious names become more easily accessible and mean that clients can experience a prescriptive blend put together for their own skin without having to wade through a long list of products to buy. 

Between the massive buzz around personalised skincare and our own product fascination, we wanted to try these subscriptions services. Could an online consultation and the inclusion of one daily dose cream really transform a skincare regime?

With Skin + Me and Dermatica each charging £19.99 each for a 28-day supply, we decided to see whether one fared better than the other. 

You can trust our independent reviews. We may earn commission from some of the retailers, but we never allow this to influence selections, which are formed from real-world testing and expert advice. This revenue helps to fund journalism across The Independent.

Skin + Me

Skin and Me.jpg

Getting started with the online consultation process, we input basic personal details before being asked about our skin goals. A comprehensive list, you can select as many options as you like and swap them at any stage during the treatment. As we’re in our mid-30s and have seen signs of ageing and skin fatigue develop during lockdown, we chose two: tackling fine lines and wrinkles, and improving skin texture by brightening or smoothing. Other options to choose from included clearing spots, making pores less visible and eradicating dark spots or pigmentation. 

We filled in skin colour next, for which we came under “fair: it often burns, but tans a little”. The method of choosing this was based on a medically classified model known as the Fitzpatrick Scale, so we knew that our skin type analysis would be scientifically informed. Additional questions spanned current prescriptions and medical history, which we found reassuring because one of the medications we take makes our skin sensitive to irritation. And, between that and burning easily, we’re generally more wary of trying unknown ingredients without guidance. 

After some brief medical history notes such as allergies, reactions, and any potential hormonal issues, we were onto lifestyle queries, such as nearby pollution, tanning bed use, time spent outdoors, diet, sleep and stress levels.  Within this, we were also asked about vices such as coffee, smoking, and alcohol. As coffee lovers, we dreaded being recommended to ditch it, but we appreciated there being no such judgement to make us cut our beloved caffeine kick.

After adding in our current skincare regime and how often we use an SPF (the inclusion of sunscreen is particularly important as active ingredients can make the skin more sun sensitive) it was time to upload some unfiltered make-up free photos – which apparently nobody else sees, phew. The consultation took just five minutes and felt easy, concise and informal. 

While our answers were sent on to the prescriber for review, we were told to keep our skincare routine simple and only use cleanser, moisturiser and an SPF. Our own named consultant dermatologist also gave us additional product recommendations to try with Skin + Me, based on our consultation. These were a La Roche-Posay cleanser and moisturiser, and Heliocare SPF. This additional tailored advice offered extra dermatologist insight into our skincare routine that we wouldn’t have had without the consultation.

Just 24 hours after consultation we received an email with our new prescription and alongside an explanation as to why these ingredients had been included. Our prescription included tretinoin (0.006 per cent), a retinoid that accelerates skin cell turnover to improve skin texture; niacinamide (four per cent), an antioxidant that promotes skin firmness and azelaic acid (four per cent), an antioxidant with evidence it improves skin texture.

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We have used weak strength azelaic acid and niacinamides before but have never been given this quick breakdown of the reason for its inclusion in a product. Also, due to the aforementioned sensitive skin issue, this was our first foray into prescribed retinols. We wouldn’t have known to combine all three, and why they would work so well together were itt not for Skin + Me. 

The product arrived two days after consultation, packaged in a cardboard envelope with our skin goal, active ingredients, prescribing and expiry dates and a routine reminder written inside. We really rate Skin + Me’s commitment to sustainability with no plastic or unnecessary packaging. Meanwhile, the branding is a vibrant yellow and the infinitely recyclable aluminium tube comes complete with the words Skin + Me For (insert tester’s first name here) etched across – a personalised touch we felt added to the aesthetic wow factor. 

The 12ml tube has a twist and click top, releasing an exact amount of product per night. Designed for application after gentle cleansing, the light creamy consistency dabbed onto the face easily and soaked straight in. There was no tingling or irritation, despite our previous retinol reservations and after 10 minutes, we applied a moisturiser.

Although the team strongly advised us that major results will take around eight weeks, we actually saw noticeable improvements after only seven days. Our tester’s skin looked brighter and, as for that lockdown accelerated lined forehead? It was so much smoother that it almost looked shiny without make-up. In fact, we’d go so far as to say, our complexion is currently the most radiant it has ever looked. Within two weeks, skin looked clearer, the forehead and eye area in particular appearing tighter. Overall, our skin appears to have significantly less lines – so much so, that even our husband noticed a difference (unprompted, we should add). 

We were sent a follow up email a few days into the treatment, with the chance to give feedback. Similarly, the dermatology support team can be emailed at any time, which we found comforting to know in the event of any reactions. Three weeks on from the first product being prescribed, an email arrived with our next dose, which was a slight increase to 0.009 per cent tretinoin.  

Overall, we’re in awe of the results after only initial use and think that £20 per month is a very reasonable investment for access to expert dermatologists, a tailormade plan and products. We can’t wait to continue witnessing skin improvements that feel so achievable with minimal invasiveness or effort. 

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Dermatica

Skin + me.jpg

Beginning the Dermatica treatment process was an equally simple and speedy process to Skin + Me. We had three unfiltered images ready and we were asked to input our biggest skin concerns. Options included rosacea, fine lines or wrinkles, dull skin, open pores, melasma, deep-set wrinkles, skin firmness and hyperpigmentation or dark spots. Once again, we went for the fine lines and dull skin pick, as we were interested to see if the plan would vary to Skin + Me. Using symbolic diagrams this time, we were then asked if our skin was normal, dry, oily, combination or, as ours is, sensitive. A few medical history questions came next, touching on any hormonal issues or current contraception. 

When questioned about skincare colour, Dermatica differed to Skin + Me because we were shown six model photograph options to choose between. Within medical history, the questions from Dermatica were more clinically worded than Skin + Me, with a set box to tick marking our understanding of the importance of wearing a mineral based sunscreen while doing this treatment. 

We were also asked about any recreational drug use as well as prescription medications, and again the wording was quite formal. Finally, the consultation covered medications, allergies and asked us to sign to say that treatment would be solely for our own use.  

We were emailed the day after with our prescription plan for the first, second and third months. The prescription would be tretinoin 0.015 per cent and niacinamide four per cent for the first month, with the tretinoin increasing to 0.025 per cent into month two and finishing at 0.05 per cent for month three. A detailed breakdown of the ingredients and their uses was included, informing us in science-led terminology. For example, from this we learnt that tretinoin is a vitamin A derivative that improves fine and coarse wrinkles by restoring dermal collagen. While also gaining insight into niacinamide being an active form of vitamin B3 that increases ceramide production and hydrating skin. 

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Additionally, it was explained that we could continue on this third month maintenance dosage afterwards, unless a follow-up consultation required a change of prescription. Having the entire plan laid out in full gave us a clear picture of our upcoming treatment.

The product arrived within a couple of days, packaged in a sealed postal envelope and cardboard box complete with ingredients, prescribing and expiry dates. Dermatica also provides an enclosed treatment guide, which features detailed ingredient information and potential side effects that can be referred to, like a medical prescription.

A recyclable 15ml plastic bottle contains the lotion of which you use one or two pumps per night. At first glance the product looks more clinical.

After evening cleansing, we applied the silky soft lotion onto our skin. Due to the tretinoin being a slightly higher dose, we experienced tingling, itching and redness. This is completely normal, and is part of the skin cell turnover process that prescribed retinols cause. We had expected initial irritation, given that our skin can be super sensitive, and this was a higher dose tretinoin than Skin + Me.

With experts on hand to answer questions, we sought their advice. One of the dermatology team recommended popping moisturiser onto skin before the product, as well as afterwards, acting as a barrier, and reducing the lotion use to every couple of days rather than once nightly. Both bits of advice really helped and, as someone who has been wary of retinols in the past, we appreciated getting the continued guidance and supervision. 

Much like Skin + Me, Dermatica is a process with the goal of long-term results. Despite having initial issues with the tretinoin strength, gauging it a few weeks in, we’ve seen a newfound skin glow. The powerful active blend is clearly highly effective as once again, fine lines appear much less and our overall complexion feels refreshingly toned. Plus, we really appreciate the fact that there’s no need for acids, exfoliators or numerous additional products in your skincare arsenal. Value for money measures up with Skin + Me, due to their matching price points. 

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The verdict: Skin + Me vs Dermatica

From an aesthetic point of view, Skin + Me’s packaging is undeniably superior. The dose release clicker is genius and who doesn’t want their name written on a daily skincare staple?

Apart from that, our tester was seriously impressed by the reasonable price and accessibility of both services, with a login for each and experts on hand over email or phone. We couldn’t fault how helpful the dermatology teams were and Dermatica gave us immediate advice.

The results speak for themselves and we’ve seen tangible improvements that can only be attributed to using dermatologist-prescribed products. The services also take all the hassle out of guessing which buys may work for your skin and minimise the products needed in a routine.

It’s worth knowing that both brands offer a free trial, if you wanted to explore each for yourself. Because, as with personalised skincare in general, this isn’t a one size fits all solution. Skin + Me is more of an entry level expert treatment due to their lowest tretinoin being less, and for that reason they suited our sensitive skin best. 

We put the e.l.f and Elemis pro-collagen cleansing balms head to head to find out which is best

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