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Your ultimate guide to applying fake tan – from prep to products

From the best formulas to essential aftercare, we went to the tanning experts

Daisy Lester
Friday 10 May 2024 10:03
Perfect your routine with this step by step guide
Perfect your routine with this step by step guide (iStock/The Independent )

Giving you that fresh-off-the-plane look without the need to leave your home, fake tan is the key to a sun damage-free glow.

Now, with the weather warming up and our layers of clothes shedding (for the time being at least), fake tan becomes even more of a holy grail product.

But any fake tan addict will know that application can often be fiddly and the results far from perfect (think tell-tale hands, orange patches and dreaded tiger bread skin). Achieving a natural-looking tan is all about sufficient prep, accessories like mitts and brushes, and aftercare to make your glow last longer (trust us, we’ve been fake tanning for a decade).

Plus, it’s important to find the right product for you, your skin and your routine – clear formulas are perfect for those who like to apply their tan in the morning and throw on clothes straight away, while gradual moisturisers can be kinder to sensitive skin and mousses deliver a deeper bronzed look.

From the best way to prep your skin before fake tanning to the tried-and-tested products worth stocking up on, we went to the tanning experts to deliver the ultimate guide to applying fake tan.

How to prep skin before fake tanning

The secret to an even and natural-looking tan is all in the prep – particularly if you have an old layer of fake tan already on your skin. Whether you use an exfoliating mitt, brush or loohfah, it’s important to exfoliate your skin so you have a smooth, fresh base ahead of fake tanning. Nicky Matthews, founder of tanning brand Sienna X, tells us it’s best, where possible, to use products with natural ingredients that are kind to the skin. “Exfoliating helps ensure that old layers of the skin are removed to help reduce skin shredding once you have tanned,” Matthews explains.

Rosie Greenhalgh, founder and MD of Rose and Caramel, adds: “This also goes for shaving and waxing too. Hair removal should be done at least 24 hours before to allow your pores to close and avoid any ‘dotting’ on the skin.”

If you have any old fake tan on, your new layer will be patchy and result in dryness, so always make sure to scrub any existing product completely off. You skin should also be free from make-up, perfume and deodorant (hello, green armpits!).

While some like a good old fashioned manual scrubber, others prefer to use fake tan removal products or even baby oil. Matthews says: “My top tip is a lovely warm relaxing bath with baby oil added to the water. Whilst in the bath gently massage your skin to help break down the fake tan on the skin.”

There are many novel products that work to lift the product off your skin, coming in mousse, scrub or liquid form. The best formulas containing gentle exfoliants like glycolic acid that effectively melt away your tan. In our review, Skinny Tan’s miracle eraser (£6.69, Lookfantastic.com) was the best multipurpose fake tan removal product.

How to apply fake tan

Jules Von Hep, founder of tanning brand Isle of Paradise, says “for the best results, apply your tan an hour after showering so skin is hydrated.”

Most fake tans should be applied using a mitt like Bondi Sands’ reusable design (£4.24, Lookfantastic.com). This helps ensure an even and streak-free finish – and most importantly, no orange palms. Be sure to use a clean mitt - they can often get loaded with old product if they are not washed every time, leading to an uneven finish,” Greenhalgh tells us.

“When applying, start from the ankles and work your way up, massaging the skin as you go, if you’re using a mitt/brush sweep in lengthways motions, and never circular as the pressure is more even,” Von Hep says. “Imagine you’re frosting a cake, spreading the tan onto the skin.”

“As a rule whatever you apply on each arm double or triple for the leg,” he adds. Apply a second layer if you want a deeper finish.

Most fake tans can be left on to develop anywhere between four to 12 hours, so many choose to apply it in the evening before washing off in the morning. A handy tip, Von Hep suggests using “a hairdryer on cool to speed up the drying process of your tan.”

If you’re using a gradual tan moisturiser, applying it with your hands is a lot easier (just remember to wash them after).

How to apply fake tan to your face

When it comes to fake tanning your face, it’s best to use products specially formulated for your skincare needs. “All face tanning products are formulated with skincare in mind to look after the skin from the inside,” Matthews tells us. “Always ensure you are starting with a clean cleansed face.”

Megan Gaskell, junior buyer at Lookfantastic, agrees, adding: “Again, it starts with prep, ensuring your face is clean, cleansed, exfoliated and moisturised.” To ensure even application – particularly around the hairline – we’d also suggest using a make-up brush to blend the product in.

Von Hep’s pro tip is to “brush your teeth prior to tan application, as toothpaste can collect at the side of your mouth and remove tan here if you do it afterwards.” Niche, but important.

The type of face fan tanner you choose should depend on your skin type. If you’re skin is dry, opt for a gradual tanning lotion, cream or moisturiser. Gaskell said: “I personally love to use face tanning creams which have specific ingredients focus to support moisture retention and actively target facial concerns.”

Those with oily skin should go for more lightweight sprays or mousses. Serums are great for those with sensitive skin, especially formulas that contain naturally derived ingredients.

Like body fake tan, most face tanners develop gradually over a couple of hours – but in recent years, bronzing drops have become an increasingly popular choice. “Our most loved by customers is the self-tan drops, which allows you to be in control of your desired shade” Matthews says. “The drops can be applied neat or mixed in with your daily moisturiser, add as many drops as desired, the more drops a greater glow.”

Our favourite premium formula is Drunk Elephant’s D-bronzi drops (£33, Lookfantastic.com) while Elf’s budget alternative (£12, Elfcosmetics.co.uk) is equally effective for giving an instantly bronzed look.

How to fake tan hands, ankles and elbows

Patchy hands, elbows, ankles and knees can give away a bad fake tan job. The solution? Apply an oil-free moisturiser to any dry areas of skin that fake tan is prone to cling to. “Make sure to really blend in the moisturiser and this will work as a barrier to avoid discolouration,” Greenhalgh says.

It might also be worth investing in a fake tan brush, which is useful when applying the product on your hands, neck and feet. “To avoid any harsh lines, buff in between your fingers and around your hands and feet with the dry side of your mitt or a blending brush for a natural-looking finish,” Greenhalgh explains, adding that you should remember to “buff, buff, buff, and blend, blend, blend, to ensure an even finish”. We love Isle of Paradise’s blending brush (£12.95, Lookfantastic.com) for helping with a flawless finish.

“Alternatively, a tanning mist is the most hassle-free to apply tan onto hands and feet, simply spritz the tanning mist 10-15cm above the hands in a circular motion to create an even coverage and reduce the risk of tan getting onto the palms of your hands,” Matthews suggests. “Do not be tempted to add more tan to your hands if the guide colour doesn’t appear dark enough, the colour will develop.”

How to make your tan last longer

Most fake tan can last up to six days with the correct aftercare. Make sure to moisturise daily to keep your skin hydrated and delay the fake tan from fading. This will prevent dryness, patchiness and tiger bread skin. Of course, hydration occurs from the inside out, so Von Hep says to “keep hydrated. Drink that water – happy hydrated skin won’t shed and will hold onto the colour for longer.”

Greenhalgh also suggests “sticking to shorter, cooler showers and lightly patting or air drying your skin when you get out, and never rub with a towel”. She adds that another tan-fader is chlorine, so try to avoid swimming pools too.

The best fake tan, from face to body

St. Moriz Luxe hydra-glow clear tanning mousse: £19, Lookfantastic.com

(St Moriz)

Securing the top spot in our round-up of the best fake tans for 2024, our tester said St Moritz’s clear tanning mousse ticks all the right boxes. “Being a mousse, it’s incredibly easy to apply with a mitt – just be sure to cover every area thoroughly – and it instantly absorbs as it’s so lightweight,” they said. Packed with skin-loving ingredients like rose water, goji berry extract and glycerin, it hydrates, nourishes and reduce redness.

“Clear in colour, it won’t leave you looking tangoed immediately after application, doesn’t stain bed sheets and leaves no sticky, greasy feeling, just a natural-looking golden glow,” they praised.

Buy now

Tan-Luxe the face illuminating self-tan drops: £24.12, Lookfantastic.com

(Tan-Luxe)

Tan Luxe’s luxurious formula was the top pick in our round-up of the best face fake tanners. “Packed full of skin-boosting ingredients, including raspberry seed oil, vitamin E and aloe vera, these glow-inducing drops are not only incredibly easy to use, but they also help hydrate the skin,” our tester said. They found that the formula was the most colour-enhancing tan drops they’ve tried, adding that “simply mixing three to five drops into your evening moisturiser will give you enough of a glow to notice a difference when you wake up in the morning and there’s no sticky or tacky feeling or strange smell in sight.”

Buy now

Skinny Tan miracle eraser: £6.69, Lookfantastic.com

(Skinny Tan )

Our favourite buy for removing fake tan, Skinny Tan’s miracle eraser was praised as a multipurpose product that not only helps remove tan but also works to prime skin for a fresh layer.

“While the scrub texture feels just like other body scrubs at first, the formula contains a combination of manual and chemical exfoliants (pumice and salicylic acid) that help buff away tan, as well as moisturising ingredients (glycerin and urea) that work to soften and smoothe skin,” our tester said. While they still had to buff away some areas of stubborn tan after rinsing, the time doing so was significantly reduced and their skin was left feeling smooth, clean and soft – ready for a new layer of tan.

Buy now

Isle of Paradise self-tanning butter: £12.69, Amazon.co.uk

(Sephora )

In our round-up of the best gradual tans, it was Isle of Paradise’s self-tanning butter that came up trumps. Created with nourishing ingredients, the formula contains a natural blend of coconut, eucalyptus and peppermint oils, with green colour-correcting actives to cancel out redness on skin.

“Thicker than your average moisturiser, we find this formula helps with a more thorough and even application, leaving our skin feeling instantly hydrated and smooth,” they said.

Buy now

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