Vegan perfume FAQs
“Cosmetics that involve animal cruelty are banned in the EU and UK,” notes perfumer and founder of 4160Tuesdays Sarah McCartney, whose own perfumes are mostly vegan (but a small number use honey or butter extracts). “But if a perfumer uses [whale secretion] ambergris which was washed up on a beach – rather than taken from a slaughtered whale – that is legal. But its use can also encourage illegal whaling, which is why it’s been banned in Australia and the US.
“However, these days, perfumers use a material called Ambrox – a trademark – and similar materials to do the same job, so it’s not necessary. Ambergris on a notes list generally means ‘smells like ambergris’, but is actually Ambrox.” Other synthesised versions of animal-derived ingredients include civetone, and muscone.
What are synthetic ingredients?
Synthetic ingredients help to eradicate animal-derived ones, but vegan perfume brands often prioritise natural ingredients. Many of the vegan perfumes our tester found contained predominantly natural ingredients and championed themselves as such.
While admittedly some synthetic musks (PCMS) commonly used in fragrance are non-biodegradable petrochemicals and come with environmental and health concerns, there are many natural ingredients that have been deemed equally questionable. “Natural” doesn’t always mean “better” for your skin (nor for the planet for that matter), so spritz them on with caution, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Is cruelty free the same thing as vegan?
If a perfume is “cruelty-free” this doesn’t automatically mean it’s vegan too. “Cosmetics that involve animal cruelty are banned in the EU and UK,” notes perfumer and founder of 4160Tuesdays Sarah McCartney, whose own perfumes are mostly vegan (but a small number use honey or butter extracts).
“But if a perfumer uses [whale secretion] ambergris which was washed up on a beach – rather than taken from a slaughtered whale – that is legal.” She adds. So it’s a murky minefield at the best of times. Happily, ingredients such as ambergris, together with musk and civet are being created in synthetic (i.e. vegan) form, so we can spritz on without the sacrifice.
The verdict: Vegan scents
Given many natural vegan perfumes (especially citrus ones) don’t tend to have the punch or staying power of their synthetic counterparts, we were impressed with Bon Parfumeur 001. While our tester isn’t of the opinion natural perfumes are inherently preferable to synthetics (synthetic vegan alternatives helped to replace natural animal-derived ingredients after all), this certainly impressed them, being both natural, yet incredibly unique and long-lasting at the same time. With beautiful scents like these, vegan perfume clearly doesn’t mean sacrificing on quality of the juice – we think non-vegan perfumers should take note too.
For more perfume ideas, read our guide to the best women’s perfumes
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